Walk to Chora

You don’t really want to be walking anywhere in Greece once the sun gets up. For this reason we set off early morning to walk to Chora, about an hour away. Our first target was the Temple to Apollo, known locally as Portara, that forms an entrance to Naxos on a promontory in front of the Port.

We used Google Maps to help us keep to the back streets and it worked a treat. We made friends with baby goats on route and were the first arrivals at the Portara tourist attraction. After a quick look around and a few snaps, several hundred other tourists started to arrive so we left.

Having witnessed the mayhem around Chora when the ferry came in, our walk was designed to enable us to see the town without driving/parking issues. So we headed to the old town which is centred around a hill and castle. There are market shops, fortunately still closed due to the early start, small winding alleys and many restaurants, again all closed. We kept wandering upwards until we reached the castle on the summit. Here there were more signs for a restaurant/bar/cafe, which we followed, half expecting it to be shut.

To our delight it was open, and even more delightful, it was on a balcony overlooking the whole town and port from the top of the castle. The view was just spectacular. We had a wonderful brunch and soaked up the views. This all went down very well, after our early morning walk.

We learnt a bit of the castle’s history. Nuns had occupied the part the castle we were in and from about 1739 to 1967, they had run a school here to help educate local Naxian girls in foreign languages general behaviour and manners as well as other standard subjects. Before very long the school’s reputation grew and girls started coming from all over the world. Unfortunately the school is now gone, but there was lots of memorabilia to see, like the kitchens where the school dinners were prepared.

The breakfast and views on this balcony were fantastic. We then went rambling around town until I lost Sue in a local shop. We were offered a taste of the three local spirits made from the leaves off a Citron Tree. White was 32% proof, Green as 35% proof and Gold was 40%. We both sipped our way through these smiling politely. My personal thoughts were we may have found a solution to the jet fuel shortages!

We continued our rambling around the old streets of Chora, then settled down in a nice cafe for a break and a coffee and fresh lemon juice. We decided a taxi home might be best as the temperature was now getting up, so Sue headed for the loo and we were then going to head to the port for the taxi rank. As Sue disappears I spot the Blue Star Ferry heading for the port. I realise about 500 to 2,000 tourists will be disembarking and looking for a Taxi. We need to get to the port fast. I gather our bags and look for Sue, who has just stopped in the cafe to check out their offering of Limoncello. I have one eye on the Ferry and the other on Sue, checking all the different sizes, prices and shapes of bottles. I’m cursing the prolific number of options available and the speed of the advancing ferry. Finally Sue exits the cafe and I shout, “quick the ferry’s coming in”. As best we can, after the walk we run for the taxi rank. The herd heading along the dock are advancing on the taxis, but we should just be ahead of them. We reach the taxi rank and there are 6 taxis available. Fantastic, well it would have been if they hadn’t all been reserved for ferry passengers. We decided we would try walking back, and it turned out to be just as enjoyable as the walk in, just a bit more sticky in the mid-day sun.

After a short rest and some nibbles we set off for the beach. The Meltimi was doing its best to create chaos. At something approaching 40mph it was quite an experience trying to sunbath. It was more like being sandblasted in preparation for a new coat of enamel. It was however a beautiful spot and we did manage to find a rock to hide behind.

We rounded off a great day with a visit to our local taverna, about 300m walk from our accommodation. It’s wonderful here, watching the sun set, eating and drinking well and just strolling home.

I really think we are getting the hang of this Island Hopping. Here’s to another day tomorrow.